Friday, October 31, 2008

713-717 FAYETTEVILLE


713, 715, 717 Fayetteville St., 1962.
(Courtesy Durham County Library / North Carolina Collection)

The multi-bay commercial structure at 713-717 Fayetteville St. appears to have been built circa 1930. By the mid 1930s, 713 housed Max Zuckerman's meat market, 715 William Boykin's tailor shop, and 717 the Carolina Barber Shop.
By 1941, 713 had changed to College View Shoe Repair, which became Hayti Shoe Repair by the 1950s, and the H&H Sport Shop by 1957 and the Palms Beauty Salon by 1959. Boykin's at 715 had become Boykin and Roberts' by 1959 as well. By 1968, 713 was the Modern Beauty Salon, and 717 was vacant. It appears to have had another tenant, briefly after that (Fowlers Barber Shop?)


Circa 1970.
(Courtesy Durham County Library / North Carolina Collection)

This structure was torn down ~1972. It is now the entry to 'Withers Court' - a cul-de-sac of sorts built during the 1980s.


Site of 713-717 Fayetteville, 10.05.08

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35.985906,-78.897487

Thursday, October 30, 2008

Durham County's Commitment to Historic Preservation : II


500 block of East Main, 10.30.08



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35.991673 -78.895275

711 FAYETTEVILLE


711 Fayetteville, mid 1920s
(Courtesy Duke Rare Book and Manuscript Collection / Scanned by Digital Durham)

711 Fayetteville appears to have been built in the mid-1920s as the office of surgeon John Windon V. Cordice. Dr. Cordice appears to have practiced at this location for over 30 years, until his death on May 2, 1958; he is buried in Beechwood Cemetery. He also served as a surgery attending physician at Lincoln Hospital. From the 1930s, the building also housed the Friendly City Barber Shop - initially at 711 1/2. It appears that by the 1940s, the two had switched places - with Dr. Cordice at 711 1/2 and the barber shop at 711.

After Dr. John Cordice's death, Dr. Norman Cordice (DDS) took over his space - I'm unsure as to what relation they were to one another. Norman Cordice was born in 1894 and died in 1987.


711 Fayetteville, 1962.
(Courtesy Durham County Library / North Carolina Collection)

Around 1970, these businesses left and were replaced briefly by "Project Outreach" and the Durham Business and Professional Chain, an organization that had served since 1938 as what I would refer to as a Chamber of Commerce for Hayti and the African-American community.

By 1974, this building was gone. Its site is presently the front yard of a ~1980s house.


Site of 711 Fayetteville, 10.05.08

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35.985985,-78.897409

Wednesday, October 29, 2008

707-709 FAYETTEVILLE


707-709 Fayetteville, 1922.
(Courtesy Duke Rare Book and Manuscript Collection / Scanned by Digital Durham)

707-709 Fayetteville was built ~1920 as an office building; the Hunter Masonic Temple was the primary tenant of the building. (I'm unsure as to whether or not they constructed the building.) I think of this building as the Hayti version of the Masonic Temple/Eligibility building on East Main St.


1920s view of the building, looking northeast from Fayetteville St. You can see the Masonic 'banner' on the roof and the inlaid symbols on the facade. Pender's grocery is one of the first floor tenants.
(Courtesy Duke Rare Book and Manuscript Collection / Scanned by Digital Durham)

The building housed numerous tenants - it's unclear if these were all offices or apartments as well - often the city directories simply list a name associated with a "Room."

By the 1930s, it had become home to the offices of the Bankers Fire Insurance Company, founded by WG Pearson in 1920 - Pearson also founded the Southern Fidelity Mutual Insurance Co., located less than half a block away.

.
Bankers Fire Insurance Company from "Negro Durham Marches On" 1949.
(Courtesy Durham County Library / North Carolina Collection)

The building is termed the "Bankers Fire Insurance Company Building" through the 1940s, 50s, and 60s. The upstairs offices appear to have housed a variety of physician, lawyer, real estate, and other offices.

By 1959, the basement housed the Petite Birdland Restaurant; a club that reportedly hosted some great jazz performances. Evidently the quality was such that even Duke and UNC students would venture into Hayti (during the segregated era) to see performances. I'd love to learn more about who performed there.


707 Fayetteville, 1965.
(Courtesy Durham County Library / North Carolina Collection)

By the late 1960s, several of the surrounding structures had been demolished.


Likely early 1970s.
(Courtesy Durham County Library / North Carolina Collection)

This building persisted later than most, serving as an office for the Redevelopment Authority into the early 1970s. It appears to have been demolished by the mid-1970s.

A house (part of a semi-circular housing development off 'old' Fayetteville) currently sits on the site of the building.



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35.98608 -78.897308

Tuesday, October 28, 2008

701-705 FAYETTEVILLE / THE ELECTRIC THEATER

A row of 2-story commercial structures were built at the northern peak of the 'triangle' formed by the acute angle of the intersection of Fayetteville and Whitted Sts. These seem to have housed barber shops at 701 and 703 Fayetteville; 705 Fayetteville was the Electric Theater, a vaudeville and movie theater opened in 1913 by FK Watkins, the 'Movie King'.


1913 Sanborn map of the 700 block of Fayetteville (the 600 block in this map, renumbered by the 1920s.)

By 1915, this theater was renamed the Rex Theater. To date, I've not found a picture of the theater. By ~1920, the Rex had moved to 522 East Pettigrew St. Shortly thereafter, 701, 703, and 705 Fayetteville were torn down for the People's Service Station.


Partial view of the new 701 Fayetteville at the left edge of the picture, mid-1920s
(Courtesy Duke University Rare Book and Manuscript Collection. Scanned by Digital Durham)

The People's Service Station at 701 Fayetteville was established between 1920 and 1923, likely the earliest service station on Fayetteville St. By the 1930s, it had become the Bull City Service Station, which it remained throughout the mid-twentieth century, at some point becoming an Esso station.


701 Fayetteville, looking southeast, 1962.
(Courtesy Durham County Library / North Carolina Collection)


701 Fayetteville, looking east, ~1970. You can see most of the surrounding structures have been demolished, and the Fayette Place housing project has been constructed to the east.
(Courtesy Durham County Library / North Carolina Collection)

This structure was torn down ~1970. It is the backyard of a house now.


Site of 701 Fayetteville, looking southeast, 10.05.08. You can see the roofs of the former Fayette Place housing project in the background.

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35.986194,-78.897253

Monday, October 27, 2008

727 N Mangum Bid Period Open

The city has opened the bid period for 727 N. Mangum. Here are the documents:

Advertisment
Brochure
Offer to Purchase

Bid early, bid often. Please show those who think they own city government that people who care about the future of Durham are willing to put their money into the game.

716-718 FAYETTEVILLE


700 block of Fayetteville St., 1950s. 714-8 Fayetteville is the last building in the block, at the corner of Fayetteville St. and then-St.Joseph St.
(Courtesy The Herald-Sun)

716-718 Fayetteville appears to have been built in the early 1920s; in 1923, 714 housed the Norfolk Sport Shop. By 1941, 716 housed Community Shoe Repair, and 718 Medliin's Seafood. By 1947, 716 housed the Pearline Beauty Salon, 718 Smith's Grocery

.
From "Negro Durham Marches On" - 1949.
(Courtesy Durham County Library / North Carolina Collection)

Smith's Grocery remained the tenant in 718 through the 1960s. 716 became Williams' Beauty Shop in the late 1940s/early 1950s, but that portion of the building remained vacant through the late 1950s before becoming LaPetite Beauty Nook in 1961.


716-718 Fayetteville, 1962.
(Courtesy Durham County Library / North Carolina Collection)

The building was torn down in 1967. The site is the vacant back corner of a 1980s medical office complex.


Looking northwest at the site of 716-718 Fayetteville, 10.05.08

Hayti Overview

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35.986079 -78.897707

Sunday, October 26, 2008

Saturday, October 25, 2008

Durham County's Commitment to Historic Preservation



Durham County demolishing 504 East Main St., one of 12 buildings it is destroying for a surface parking lot, 10.24.08.

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35.991795 -78.895522

Friday, October 24, 2008

710-712 FAYETTEVILLE


Looking southwest, 700 block of Fayetteville St., 1950s
(Courtesy The Herald Sun)

710-712 Fayetteville was built as a grocery store, initially the Superior Market. By the 1930s, 710 housed the Selective Shoe Repair store and 712 the Progressive Stores, another grocery. 710 was the Harlem Sport Shop (shoe shine) by the early 1940s, and Childs' Sport Shop by the 1950s. Also by the 1950s, the Progressive Store had become Purity Stores, a grocery with branches throughout Durham. By 1957, this was replaced by a branch of Scott and Roberts Dry Cleaners. The sport shop became a beauty shop by 1959.


710-712 Fayetteville, 1962.
(Courtesy Durham County Library / North Carolina Collection)

Most buildings in this block came down by 1967. In 1968, this structure was the last remaining in this block.


Looking southwest, late 1960s.
(Courtesy Durham County Library / North Carolina Collection)

By the early 1970s, it was gone as well.

It's currently a fairly empty part of the back of a medical complex.


Looking southwest, 10.05.08

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35.986161 -78.897562

Thursday, October 23, 2008

City Approves Most Landmark Applications

Praise is due to the city council for approving most of the landmark designations brought before them for approval Monday night. I find antagonism towards the landmark program to be so misplaced that having some of these denied seems like a loss to me, but I recognize that some members of the council and some of the commissioners have picked this issue to highlight as a huge drain on our local gov't revenue. For those who aren't familiar with the program, a rather laborious application must be submitted to the planning department, which reviews and forwards to the state historic preservation office, which makes a recommendation. The planning staff makes a recommendation as well, and brings these before council for approval.

The results of landmark designation? If the property was not already in a local historic district, it comes under Historic Preservation Commission purvey (a 'district of one' if you will.) And - and this is the reason for the hand-wringing - a 50% property tax abatement.

As I've said before, while I'm in favor of this, I don't think it's the right program. I think we should have a more global abatement for all properties in local districts, brought down to a more manageable percentage. (And maintenance of the local landmark program for creating that 'district of one' for properties not in a district-able area.) At a minimum, a reassessment freeze if you're in a local district - for 20 or 25 years or similar. This would have multiple benefits. 1) An offset for those who believe local district review of architectural changes constitutes a loss of property rights/value (although I disagree.) - This pays for that 'loss.' This would make more places that persistently avoid local district status willing to adopt. 2) You mitigate the negative disincentive for investment in historic neighborhoods - I consider it rather perverse that taking a risk on investment in a more threatened neighborhood would be 'rewarded' with a rise in property taxes. 3) The program would reach a broader range of income levels, benefiting homeowners in small, contributing historic houses who couldn't possibly achieve landmark status. The benefits of offsetting increased maintenance costs would make a much larger difference. This would serve to mitigate against real or perceived gentrification.

Like most creative ideas we could implement, we are stuck with what the state allows us to do. The landmark program is allowed by state statute, and we'd have to go to the state to allow us to do something that makes more sense. And that's always a huge challenge.

Nonetheless, I hope at some point we can get a state package approved that allows us to update our ineffective code enforcement/preservation policies with some of the more effective tools used by other cities.

Paschall’s Bakery and Studebaker Building - Approved

Simpson-Umstead House - Approved

Original Watts Hospital Building - Approved.

Webb Thompson House - Approved

Penny Furniture Building - Approved

Durham Laundry Building - Approved

L. D. Rogers Furniture Store Building - Approved

Rogers Drugs Building - Approved

Tempest Building - Approved

Venable Center - Approved

John O’Daniel Hosiery Mill Building - Continued until November [There is no way this should not be a local landmark - evidently the State Historic Preservation Office said that it would not meet the criteria for National Register Listing, which I think is an uninformed decision.]

King’s Daughters Home - Approved

C.C. Taylor Building (115 East Main) - Denied

Johnson-Rogers House - Denied

704-706-708 FAYETTEVILLE


Looking southwest at the 700 block of Fayetteville St., 1950s.
(Courtesy The Herald Sun)

704-706-708 Fayetteville St. was likely built in the 1910s, although it appears likely to have been refaced/stuccoed at a later date. In the 1910s, 704 housed the Durham Mutual Life Insurance Co., 706 the Crystal Barber Shop, and 708 the Sanitax Dry Cleaners. By 1923, 704 housed the "Hayti Cafe", 706 the Crystal Barber Shop, and 708 the Durham Steam Bakery. By 1938, 704 housed a branch of Durham Dairy Products, and 708 was vacant. By 1941, 704 housed Papa Jack's Rainbow Grill, 706 was vacant, and the Crystal Barber Shop had moved to 708. By 1954, Papa Jack's had moved to 706, and the Vanity Fair Beauty Salon occupied 704.


(Courtesy Durham County Library / North Carolina Collection)


Later 1960s.
(Courtesy Durham County Library / North Carolina Collection)

Thus it stayed until 1967 (it appears the Williamson Sport Shop made an appearance), when the building was torn down.

It's currently the back of a medical office complex.


Site of 704-708 Fayetteville, 10.05.08

I've puzzled over the incredible abundance of "sport shops" along the blocks of East Pettigrew and Fayetteville St. - which are labeled as "billiards" in the city directories. A recent email leads me to believe that many of these establishments actually hosted quite a bit more gambling than the occasional wager on a game of pool.
This makes quite a bit more sense, as I couldn't imagine that people were that fond of pool.

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35.986227 -78.897577

Wednesday, October 22, 2008

500 Block of East Main about to come down.



Demolition is underway in the two blocks between South Dillard, South Elizabeth, Ramseur, and East Main Sts. This is a battle I've been fighting for over two years, and I'm afraid I've lost it. You can read my original post here.

All of these buildings will be demolished by Durham County for a massive surface parking lot. I've put a picture of my favorite of the buildings above, documented in the Library of Congress as one of the first drive-up service restaurants in Durham.
I beseeched the county to spare this one, to no avail.

Very, very frustrating to see this much history, tax credits, redevelopment opportunities just thrown away. For parking. We really never learn.

727 North Mangum Upset Bid Process Approved

The city council on 10/20 approved the commencement of an upset bid process on 727 N. Mangum St., an essential structure in the historic commercial district at Little Five Points. The vote accepted UDI's opening bid of $30,000. When that bid can be published, likely 10/25, a 10-day window will begin to make an upset bid. (Usually an upset bid must exceed the previous bid by a fixed percentage - I can't remember whether it is 5% or not.)

The bid documents will likely be released Friday, 10/24, and will be available on the city's website on/in the General Services department page. (I'll update with the exact URL when released.

I very much hope that someone will come to the rescue of this little building; UDI's demolition of half of this commercial district will decimate the history and economic development of Little Five Points. It's a disservice to the public, in my mind, to be putting it out to general bid at this economic juncture - but it serves UDI's interests well, as their fund commitment from the city expires by the end of the year.

But as one supporter told a friend of mine at the council meeting.

"no matter what you say, they [the council] won't support you; they want to keep their offices and I have a way of making them come in or go out."

Good to know that we're doing what's best for Durham.

FIRST CALVARY BAPTIST

Thanks first off to Andy Edmonds who has been commenting on the destruction of this church building on my Maplewood Cemetery post.

Per the church website, First Calvary Baptist Church was organized in 1884 as Second Baptist Church on Cameron (now Cornell) Street. The white Second Baptist Church was located at West Chapel Hill and Shepherd Sts. - its name was later changed to Temple Baptist.

In 1885, a wood frame building was erected with Rev. Henry Johnson as its first Pastor. Reverend W.D. Smith later became the pastor in 1926 and was responsible for acquiring the Morehead Ave./Kent Street church site. It's unclear as to what structure was built on this site, but it appears to have been another wood frame structure from the 1937 Sanborn Map

In 1949 the church's name was changed from Second Baptist Church to First Calvary Baptist Church. In July 1949, the congregation first utilized a newly constructed brick sanctuary.

In 1987, an educational building on the property adjacent to the church was erected.

The church is heavily involved in the community, including the Lyon Park Community Center. Per the church website

"Due to the continued growth of the First Calvary Baptist Church, the church is undergoing a church expansion project that will include a sanctuary that will accommodate one-thousand worshippers and educational space."

Unfortunately, I thought I had a picture of this intact structure, but I don't.


A not-very-good picture from the tax records.


Site, 10.21.08


Rubble, 10.21.08


The grand plan.

Interestingly, it appears that the church is temporarily worshiping in the former Center Theater at Lakewood.

[I'm reasonably certain I can track down a 1950s era picture of this church and will update.]

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35.99167 -78.919715

Tuesday, October 21, 2008

DURHAM KNITTING MILL / ROYAL KNIGHTS OF KING DAVID / 702-704 FAYETTEVILLE


Sanborn map of Fayetteville and South Elm, 1913.
(Copyright Sanborn Map Company)

The Durham Textile Mill, located at 702-704 Fayetteville St had its place in history cemented by visits and commentary by both Booker T. Washington and W.E.B. DuBois.

After Julian Carr broke the taboo against employment of African-Americans as machine operators at Durham Hosiery Mill No. 2 in 1903, John Merrick was determined to show that similar success could be achieved with not only African-American mill workers, but African-American ownership as well.

By 1911, Merrick, along with C.C. Spaulding and Dr. Aaron Moore, established the Durham Knitting Mill (also called the Durham Textile Mill) at the southwest corner of South Elm and Fayetteville Sts.

The Durham Textile Mill is described by Booker T. Washington in 1911:

"I was ready to go home, but they wanted to show me one more successful Negro plant. This was the plant known as the Durham Textile Mill, the only hosiery mill in the world entirely owned and operated by Negroes. Regularly incorporated, they operate eighteen knitting machines of the latest pattern, working regularly twelve women and two men and turning out seventy-five dozen pairs of hose each day. The goods so far are standing the test in the market, being equal in every way to other hose of the same price. They are sold mainly by white salesmen, who travel mostly in North Carolina, New York, Indiana, Georgia, South Carolina, and Alabama..."


Mill interior, 1911.
(Courtesy Duke Rare Book and Manuscript Collection. Scanned by Digital Durham)


Mill interior, 1911.
(Courtesy Duke Rare Book and Manuscript Collection. Scanned by Digital Durham)

WEB DuBois visited the mill in 1913; his description:

"...we went to the hosiery mill and the planing mill. The hosiery mill was to me of singular interest. Three years ago I met the manager, C.C. Amey. He was then teaching school, but he had much unsatisfied mechanical genius. The white hosiery mills in Durham were succeeding and one of them employed colored hands. Amey asked for permission here to learn to manage the intricate machines, but was refused. Finally, however, the manufacturers of the machines told him that they would teach him if he came to Philadelphia. He went and learned. A company was formed and thirteen knitting and ribbing machines at 70 dollars apiece were installed, with a capacity of sixty dozen men's socks a day. At present the sales are rapid and satisfactory, and already machines are ordered to double the present output; a dyeing department and factory building are planned for the near future."

As W.E.B. DuBois mentions, Charles C. Amey was manager of the mill, and lived nearby at 514 Elm Street.

Although Anderson states that the mill closed in 1916, by 1915, the city directories no longer list the mill, and Mr. Amey is noted to be employed as a teller at the North Carolina Mutual company. Anderson notes the mill's demise resulted from a slump in textile production due to World War I.

Soon thereafter, 704 Fayetteville St. became home to the Royal Knights of King David.


Royal Knights of King David at 702-704 Fayetteville St., 1922.
(Courtesy Duke Rare Book and Manuscript Collection. Scanned by Digital Durham)

The R.K.K.D was a fraternal-beneficial organization which had been purchased by John Merrick, John Wright, WA Day, JD Morgan, and TJ Jones in 1883 from a "Reverend Morrison of Georgia." This organization, like many contemporaneous fraternal organizations, provided insurance by assessing members dues - typically burial insurance.

Merrick was "Supreme Grand Treasurer" of the organization, and it's speculated that RKKD incubated the the framework for the North Carolina Mutual Company, established in 1898. When the Mutual offices were established on West Parrish St., RKKD offices were located on the second floor.

The RKKD did not wither with the establishment of NC Mutual, however. The members continued to expand its presence in the southeast, and by 1918 the organization had 21,000 members, was bringing in $8,000 a month, and owned $22,000 in bonds/securities, and $40,000 in property.

W.G. Pearson was secretary and manager of the RKKD ("Supreme Grand Scribe") and managed the organization until his death in 1928. How long the RKKD survived after this point is unclear, but this branch had moved across the street by the 1930s. By 1938, 700 housed the White Way Sport Shop, and 702 housed a branch of Scott and Roberts Dry Cleaners. By 1941, White Way had become the Central Community Sport Shop.

It appears that sometime in the 1950s, the top floor of the building was removed. In 1957, the building became home to Fuller Products Cosmetics (at 700) and the Garrett-Parker drugstore. I assume that this drugstore was connected with York Garrett's Biltmore drugstore.


700-702 Fayetteville, 1962.
(Courtesy Durham County Library / North Carolina Collection)


Looking southwest on S. Elm towards the intersection of Fayetteville, S. Elm, and Whitted, 01.05.67.
(Courtesy The Herald-Sun Newspaper)

This building was torn down prior to 1968. Since the early 1980s it has been the site of a medical office complex.


Looking west at the site of 700-702 Fayetteville, the back of the medical complex.

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Hayti Overview


35.986296 -78.89753

Monday, October 20, 2008

SOUTHERN FIDELITY MUTUAL INSURANCE CO - 527 SOUTH ELM ST.


Looking east from the corner of Fayetteville and S. Elm Sts. - Whited Street is in the foreground, 1940.
(Courtesy Durham County Library)

The Southern Fidelity Mutual Insurance Co. was started in 1926 by William Gaston Pearson, who, in addition to his involvement in the NC Mutual Company, was principal of the Whitted School and then Hillside High School. He also started the Bankers Fire Insurance Company, located 1/2 block south on Fayetteville St.


Southern Fidelity interior, 1943.
(Courtesy Durham County Library)

Southern Fidelity provided car and health insurance, provided mortgages and other lending, and acted as a stocks and bonds brokerage.




It operated independently until March 1, 1963, when it merged with the Bankers Fire Insurance Co.


Looking southwest on S. Elm towards the intersection of Fayetteville, S. Elm, and Whitted, 01.05.67. The Southern Fidelity building is on the left.
(Courtesy The Herald-Sun Newspaper)

This building, at the eastern point of the "Five Points" intersection of S. Elm, Whitted, and Fayetteville St., was torn down in 1967. After remaining vacant for many years, it recently became part of the site of a new Durham County EMS station. The Southern Fidelity building would be located approximately where the southern 'wing' of the EMS station is.


Looking east, 09.04.08

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35.986275 -78.897050

Friday, October 17, 2008

618 FAYETTEVILLE ST.


618 Fayetteville, 1962.
(Courtesy Durham County Library / North Carolina Collection)

618 Fayetteville was built in the early 1920s as the Hayti Drug Store; by 1941, it had became the Hayti Grocery Store. A series of uses followed: Edith's Beauty Salon in the late 1940s, Trixie's Sport Shop and The Square Club in the mid-1950s, Pee Wee's Shoe Shop in 1959, Simply "Sport Shop/Shoe Shiner" in 1961, Johnnie's in the mid-1960s, and the John E. Payne Real Estate Company in 1968.


618 Fayetteville, late 1960s.
(Courtesy Durham County Library / North Carolina Collection)


Looking southwest on S. Elm towards the intersection of Fayetteville, S. Elm, and Whitted, 01.05.67.
(Courtesy The Herald-Sun Newspaper)

The building was torn down prior to 1972. The site has been occupied by the back of a single-story medical office complex since the early 1980s.


Site of 618 Fayetteville, 10.05.08. Although I bemoan the loss of historic architecture in general, I run across certain buildings that I actually miss, oddly enough, given that I never had the chance to see them. This is one of those.

(A bit of a departure of a link here: I've got an
in-progress post that is an overview on Hayti, including my various overview maps/aerials; I'm going to be linking to it as a geographic reference and updating it as I have the opportunity. Enjoy the Zoomify Aerial of Hayti.)

Find this spot on a Google Map.


35.986400 -78.897400