Friday, January 28, 2011

207 WEST MAIN STREET


207 West Main St., 1905
(Courtesy Duke Rare Book and Manuscript Collection. Scanned by Digital Durham)

Evidently built by Richard H. Wright in 1895, 207 West Main was the first home to the Citizens Bank, which evolved from the Morehead Bank. The bank was located here until 1908, when it moved to its own new building at 105 West Main St.


(Courtesy Duke Rare Book and Manuscript Collection)

In 1919, the building was occupied by WJ Womble, a jeweler and Nathan Rosenstein an optician (presumably upstairs.) By 1923, the first floor housed "The Electric Shoe Hospital."


205-207 West Main, ~1925

By 1928, the building 'incubated' another bank - the Hood System Industrial Bank, which would move to the former Merchant's Bank building at 116 West Main St. by 1934.


(Courtesy The Herald-Sun Newspaper)


(Courtesy The Herald-Sun Newspaper)

"The Wee Shop would then occupy the building; it would share space with "Babs Slipper Shop" by 1940, renamed "Marilyn Slipper Shop" by 1944. By 1952, Turner-Hargis clothing occupied the building, along with "Sallie McDonald Cosmetics"

In the mid-1950s, the facades of 205 and 207 West Main were removed and replaced with a single 'modern' front.


mid-1950s

"Craig-Hargis Clothing" occupied the first floor of the building in 1957, replaced by the Durham Toy and Gift Shop in 1960. By 1960-61, the building had been emptied out - whether by new ownership or suburban flight.


205-209 West Main, ~1960

Thalheimer's, which had acquired Ellis-Stone (located across the street in the Hill building through the 1950s) purchased 201-209 West Main (4 buildings) and demolished them all to build a modern department store building.


Beginning demolition, 02.07.61
(Courtesy The Herald-Sun Newspaper)


02.07.61
(Courtesy The Herald-Sun Newspaper)


02.07.61
(Courtesy The Herald-Sun Newspaper)


The buildings being demolished, 1961
(Courtesy Durham County Library / North Carolina Collection)


(Courtesy Durham County Library / North Carolina Collection)


(Courtesy Durham County Library / North Carolina Collection)

Thalheimers didn't last long here - about 10 years - before giving up on downtown. Wachovia decided to abandon the Geer building and remodel this building - evidently for extreme photosensitives -in 1972.


(Courtesy Durham County Library / North Carolina Collection)

The Self-Help Credit union bought this building in (I believe) the late 90s, and remodeled the exterior in 2002. It still isn't one of my favorite buildings, but it's better than it was.


(Courtesy Durham County Library / North Carolina Collection)


01.22.11

So - end of the story of 207 West Main Street, right?

Interestingly, no. I received an email from a reader asking me a question or two about RH Wright. Turns out that he had stumbled upon an abandoned barn in the woods near his house in northern Durham County, and Wright's name appeared on the barn. He speculated that the barn might have been part of Wright's property in north Durham; he sent a picture. In looking at it, I thought I recognized the sign. After digging through and finding the above pictures, I confirmed:


Cornice sign from 207 West Main St., 01.22.11


Cornice sign from 207 West Main St., affixed to barn, 01.22.11

Sometime after the facade of 207 West Main St. was dismantled in the early 1950s, this piece of it ended up in rural Durham county, attached to the side of a barn. Long abandoned, I have no idea how it got here.

Note: I'd like to try to track down the owner of this land and understand how safe this sign is here before identifying its exact location.

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35.995635,-78.902121

Thursday, January 27, 2011

205 WEST MAIN STREET / HOLLADAY STUDIO


205 West Main St., 1905
(Courtesy Duke Rare Book and Manuscript Collection. Scanned by Digital Durham)

One of my favorite small buildings in Durham-past is 205 West Main Street, due to its very unusual design - I'm not sure I've seen another building with quite such modern lines built during the 1890s.


(Courtesy Duke Rare Book and Manuscript Collection)

It appears from Sanborn maps that the structure was originally erected as a single story building, and that its dramatic 2nd story facade/immense window-skylight were added by 1898 as a photography studio. Originally this was the studio of Cole and Holladay, later under the proprietorship of Walter Holladay.

Holladay would become the most prolific professional photographer of early Durham, often tapped for professional publications and portraiture. If you've been a reader of this website for awhile, you've seen quite a few of his images, particularly from the 1920s.


Holladay's typical early signature
(Courtesy Duke Rare Book and Manuscript Collection. Scanned by Digital Durham)


(Courtesy Duke Rare Book and Manuscript Collection. Scanned by Digital Durham)

Holladay's name seems to have been misspelled frequently - presumably he processed them himself, so I'm not sure why this would be.

Holladay's studio appears to have been replaced at this address by the Ramsey-Kah photography studio. The first floor was occupied by the JH Farley clothing store during the 1910s and 1920s.


205-207 West Main, ~1925

Upstairs remained the Ramsey Studio through the 1930s; in the early 1940s, the upstairs studio became the first home for the Croft Secretarial and Accounting School.


(Courtesy The Herald-Sun Newspaper)


(Courtesy The Herald-Sun Newspaper)

In the early-to-mid 1950s, 205 and 207 West Main Street had their facades lopped off and replaced with an austere front.


The Globe Jewelry Co. was located on the first floor, and number of offices were located upstairs. Efforts to 'modernize' downtown in the 1950s to stem the tide of defections to the malls didn't work (although the powers-that-be - private and public - continued to beat their bloody heads against this wall for another ~30 years.) The building was soon vacant.


205-209 West Main, ~1960

Thalheimer's, which had acquired Ellis-Stone (located across the street in the Hill building through the 1950s) purchased 201-209 West Main (4 buildings) and demolished them all to build a modern department store building.


Beginning demolition, 02.07.61
(Courtesy The Herald-Sun Newspaper)


02.07.61
(Courtesy The Herald-Sun Newspaper)


02.07.61
(Courtesy The Herald-Sun Newspaper)


The buildings being demolished, 1961
(Courtesy Durham County Library / North Carolina Collection)


(Courtesy Durham County Library / North Carolina Collection)


(Courtesy Durham County Library / North Carolina Collection)

Thalheimers didn't last long here - about 10 years - before giving up on downtown. Wachovia decided to abandon the Geer building and remodel this building - evidently for extreme photosensitives -in 1972.


(Courtesy Durham County Library / North Carolina Collection)

The Self-Help Credit union bought this building in (I believe) the late 90s, and remodeled the exterior in 2002. It still isn't one of my favorite buildings, but it's better than it was.


(Courtesy Durham County Library / North Carolina Collection)


01.22.11

Find this spot on a Google Map.

35.995613,-78.902084

Wednesday, January 26, 2011

1507 EAST MAIN / ANDREWS STORE


(Courtesy Sherry Handfinger)


Former Andrews Store, 10.02.10

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Tuesday, January 25, 2011

1501 EAST MAIN ST. - DURHAM NURSERY SCHOOL


Durham Nursery School, 1938
(Courtesy The Herald-Sun Newspaper)

Per the Durham Morning Herald in 1953, on March 3, 1938, representatives from 22 religious and civic organizations met at city hall "at the invitation of the American association of University Women to consider the possibility of establishing all-day care in a nursery school for the children of working mothers on low-income"

"The meeting had been prepared for in a five month study by the Social studies Committee of the AAUW, during which Health and Public Welfare Departments, Juvenile Court, ministers, and social workers had been consulted, and it had been found that the highest rates of child delinquency and illness and broken homes occurred where the mothers worked outside the home and adequate care was not provided for the children. Durham mothers who had to work to keep livable standards of food and other necessities were in desperate need of all-day care."

"Dr. Howard Jensen said that self-respecting people who wanted to keep off of relief rolls and WPA by working had beeen neglected by social agencies, and he declared that good day-care would do much to keep families together. So he moved that a Durham Nursery School Association be formed....officers elected and instructed to open a nursery school in Edgemont, the area where the largest number of working mothers lived."

"On May 1, the cottage at 1501 East Main St. opened its doors at 6:30am to pre-school children. There was no running hot water, and a lack of stoves cut down the enrollment in winter, but for six years 45 children were kept happy and safe all day, and their mothers were relieved of anxiety."

In 1944, the nursery school was moved to 605 Hyde Park Ave. The house was still standing as of 2008 when Google came by:


1501 East Main St.

The house was demolished in 2009 when NIS took a backhoe to several square blocks between Angier and Morning Glory between Blacknall and Goley


1501 East Main St., 01.22.11

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Monday, January 24, 2011

EDGEMONT FREE WILL BAPTIST CHURCH


Edgemont Free Will Baptist, looking southeast from East Main St., 1930s
(Courtesy Charlie Gibbs)

Edgemont Free Will Baptist church originated in a meeting on November 19, 1922 called by Reverend RV (Bob) Self and Reverend WE (Uncle Bill) Anderson. Per a church brochure, the church was "born in an old-time Holy Ghost revival." Reverend Anderson would become the first pastor of the church.

A site was selected at the southwest corner of Holman St. and East Main St. after 1 1/2 years, during which time services were held in a temporary location. The original church, the wood frame structure pictured above, was built in 1924.


Edgemont Free Will Baptist, 1930s
(Courtesy Charlie Gibbs)

In 1939, the original frame church was demolished and replaced with a stone Gothic Revival structure. Per church records the building was "dedicated free of debt on October 6, 1946."


Edgemont Free Will Baptist, 02.19.62
(Courtesy The Herald-Sun Newspaper)

When I asked Charlie Gibbs, who grew up in and across the street from the church, what was happening in the picture I located above (I assumed some church social event) he gave me the details of a dramatic split of the church. Per Charlie:

The church had an on-going difference of doctrinal 'opinions' ("eternal security" for one) for several years and it became so devisive and intense that one group, the Creech Faction (pastor Ronald Creech at that time) literally walked out one Sunday morning and marched to the site of their future new church (a planned event – after they had made plans to secure property on Liberty St to build a church and form a new congregation). It became the Liberty Street FWB Church and has since splintered to a couple other locations.

The other group was the Teasley Faction, named for one of the leaders in the group, Jamie Teasley. This group was made up of original charter members of the Edgemont FWB Church and other descendants and supporters. My grandmother Dora Wilder Joyner, mother Mabel J. Gibbs and aunt Lois J. Cannady (Mother's sister) were the 3 remaining charter members. My grandfather Frank E. Joyner died before the split of the church. Daddy, William L. Gibbs, Sr. was not a charter member. He was the
Scoutmaster of the Boy Scout Troop 26 for years and a deacon and Sunday School teacher. (for me one of the most contentious, disappointing things that happened during the troubled times was that a pastor made a decision that the scouts shouldn't be camping and away from church services on Sundays. Some of the most spiritually meaningful memories of my young life were spent on the hillside chapel at Camp Durant. Daddy always held church in the woods on Sunday morning…. and I'm so thankful for it.)

Anyway, back to the church split. The Teasley group maintained the EFWBC bldg for years after the split (including the Sunday night service radio broadcast – I'm trying to remember the name of the broadcast…I'll always remember the theme song)

There were all kinds of issues between the two factions and I don't remember them all - each faction retained lawyers- I. Beverly Lake for the Creech group and Art Vann for the Teasley group.

But my heart will always remember the growing up years there across the street from the church (seeing Army trucks going down Main St., bombers squadrons in the air during the War) along with the great times with all my friends at church.



Edgemont Free Will Baptist, looking west down East Main Street, 02.19.62
(Courtesy The Herald-Sun Newspaper)

In 1968, the name of the church was changed to "First Free Will Baptist Church" in anticipation of an eventual move. On December 1, 1974, the First Free Will Baptist Church held its final service at East Main Street, and subsequently moved to Chandler Road.

The building currently houses the Church of the Apostolic Revival International; the church property encompasses ~1.6 acres, extending through this block south to Angier Avenue.


Former Edgemont Free Will Baptist / Current (2011) Church of the Apostolic Revival International, 10.20.10

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35.986684,-78.887098

Wednesday, January 19, 2011

FULLER MEMORIAL PRESBYTERIAN / DURHAM RESCUE MISSION


Durham Rescue Mission / former Fuller Memorial Presbyterian, 10.02.10

The former church building on the northeast corner of N. Alston and East Main St. was erected by the Fuller Memorial Presbyterian Church in 1928.

The church began as a Sunday School mission in 1892 serving the community that arose around the Commonwealth Cotton Mill. At the turn of the century, the construction of the Durham Hosiery No. 1 and the Golden Belt Manufacturing Company further increased the population around the mission.

In 1909, the mission was organized into the Edgemont Presbyterian Church by the Orange Presbytery, and a frame building was erected on the northeast corner of N. Alston and E. Main Sts. In ~1924, this building was torn down to allow for the construction of a new masonry structure, and the congregation was renamed the Fuller Memorial Presbyterian Church in honor of TB Fuller.


A fuzzy Bird's Eye view looking northwest, showing Fuller Memorial in the mid 1950s
(Courtesy Herald-Sun)


Aerial of the church and the adjacent Golden Belt / Morning Glory mill village, 1959.
(Courtesy Durham County Library)

In 1974, the church sold the building and moved to a new location at the corner of Pleasant Drive Extension and Mineral Springs Road; it began services at that location in 1977 and is still active.

The building was purchased by Ernie Mills and his wife, who had founded the Durham Rescue Mission in 1974.


Aerial of the Rescue Mission and mill village, 2010.

The Rescue Mission has provided a steady beacon of support for homeless members of the Durham community; per a recent press release, they "provided 232,653 meals and served 1,077 different men, women and children..." during 2010. More information about the size and scope of the organization is contained in their last tax return filing and on their website.

For the last several years, the Rescue Mission has been making big plans to expand - with what Ernie Mills recently dubbed a "God-size project" - purchasing a large number of parcels/houses in the Golden Belt / Morning Glory mill village to the north of the church and seeking donations for expansion.


Rescue Mission-owned parcels in the Golden Belt / Morning Glory neighborhood, 2010.

It became clearer that the Rescue Mission planned to move ahead with their plans late in 2010, when they applied to rezone the residential parcels they own. Plans submitted to the City / County Planning department with the rezoning demonstrated several worrisome elements to neighbors. The scale had grown considerably from the single multipurpose building discussed in previous years; it now stretched over portions of five city blocks, involved the demolition of 9 houses in historic district, and contemplated the closing of two streets, creating a fenced/gated facility stretching over three blocks.


Initial Rescue Mission plans.

I attended a meeting between concerned neighbors and the leadership of the Durham Rescue Mission, in which the neighbors made clear their opposition to the street closings, the demolition of 9 houses in the Golden Belt historic district, and the compound-like land use planning intended by the Rescue Mission. All expressed support for the Rescue Mission expanding their footprint and/or services.

The Rescue Mission said they would consider these concerns carefully; they then promptly hired attorneys K&L Gates to represent their interests in the rezoning and submitted the following plans to the planning department:


Rescue Mission Expansion plans, December 2010


Phasing plan, December, 2010.


Plan overlaid on Google satellite imagery, 2010

The Rescue Mission's support for the widening of Alston Avenue seems a bit less befuddling now. Pedestrian flow from east to west through these blocks clearly is not a priority in these plans. I have to admit, I was disappointed by the Rescue Mission's lack of support as members of the immediate neighborhood (and beyond) tried to fend off the NCDOT widening of Alston, and felt a bit of "you reap what you sow" when an NCDOT environmental justice finding meant that the roadway would shift to the east, avoiding the demolition of Los Primos - the only grocery store in the area - by taking some of the Rescue Mission's land intended for their project.

However, the Rescue Mission immediately began seeking support to move the roadway back through Los Primos. Then the city became fully engaged in locating an alternative site for a grocery store so that NCDOT could still demolish Los Primos - which did not come to fruition. The last deal on the table seems to preserve both the RM plans and Los Primos, by cutting the roadway extremely close to the grocery store on the west side. Your guess is as good as mine as to whether that's the last iteration.

The Rescue Mission continues to push forward with a petition to close Morning Glory Avenue - which connects Golden Belt at East Main St. with 'Old' East Durham at N. Hyde Park - and Worth Streets, as well as a rezoning. Just yesterday, 01/19/11, it was announced that they had received $800,000 in grant funding to move forward with the first phase of their project.

So is it still possible to come up with a solution that furthers the goals of both the neighborhood and the Rescue Mission? I think so, but it's going to require a willingness to find creative solutions, rather than steadfast adherence to a pre-determined plan.

One of the more frustrating aspects of land use planning (and governance in general) is that - for all the data, plans, guidelines, etc. out there - decisions generally come down to an emotional appeal. It's easy in these situations to conflate the mission and the implementation; groups that broadly work to serve the community - albeit for a salary - generally work to create such conflations when they need political action. I.e., this isn't about a rezoning, it's about saving lives. Do we really care more about saving historic housing than feeding the hungry? Would we deny site plan approval and put homeless people out on the street? I've had the old "he cares about houses, not people" trotted out on me before.

We can see the effectiveness of this kind of tactic in the street closure the city voted for on behalf of Greystone Baptist back in November 2010. Despite the fact that the closure (and demolition of mill housing in West Durham) violated the small area plan that the city/county planning department had put together with the neighborhood, the city voted for the closure because Greystone proffered that the closure would allow them to expand day care options in West Durham. So the question becomes - will you really vote against the children of Durham?

Of course these tactics are not intellectually honest, but most businesses - private, university, 501c3, etc. - politicking for their projects aren't interested in win-wins - just wins. If the groups are non-profits, the city is allowing people to wallow in sin/homelessness/ill health/obesity/etc. If they are for-profits, the city is throwing away jobs, tax revenues, directly funded civic improvements, and corporate prestige.

But all of that aside, this is terrible land planning - the worst of it represented by closing streets that connect the neighborhood - antithetical to the principles laid out in the HOPE VI revitalization plan for the neighborhood over 10 years ago, which sought to break down the "superblock" of Few Gardens to provide increased connectivity and integration in the neighborhood; closing two public right-of-ways and creating a fenced 'campus' over three blocks re-establishes what the community sought to reverse. Per the revitalization plan:

"B. A Connected Neighborhood
North East Central Durham must overcome not only its isolation from the surrounding community but also the isolation experienced by pockets within the neighborhood. To do so, the design must establish street patterns that physically connect the neighborhood internally and to adjacent areas. This involves breaking oversize blocks into a more regular street grid and aligning intersections and streets to establish a predictable pattern to the neighborhood. Reconnecting the neighborhood also requires invigorating vacant or desolate spaces that create psychological distance."


The creation of a 'wall' on the east side of Alston Avenue (combined with the Rescue Mission's desire to close two streets - Morning Glory and Franklin, NCDOT plans to close another - Wall - as a part of the Alston widening) will compound the isolation of east-of-Alston from west-of-Alston perpetrated by the widening of Alston Avenue. Creating this kind of barrier has never portended good things for neighborhoods and communities. Although the orientation of the buildings isn't laid out here, the smart money says that, with a fence around the perimeter, they'll be oriented towards the internal parking lot.

Not to mention that demolishing 9 of the historic mill houses in the Golden Belt-Morning Glory National Register Historic District not only destroys the historic framework and stock of the mill village, but removes incentives to homeowners to move into and revitalize those historic houses through state historic tax credits. Golden Belt is the most intact combination of original mill and mill village that remains in Durham, despite the heavy losses it has suffered over the past 25 years.

I'll give benefit of the doubt that part of the plan is simply an inability on the part of the Rescue Mission's directors to acknowledge that the investment in the neighborhood by the Durham Housing Authority, the city (Eastway Village,) Habitat, Scientific Properties, and any number of individuals has dramatically changed this neighborhood for the better. When asked by an immediate neighbor why the Rescue Mission felt the need to fence their campus rather than integrating it with the neighborhood, Ernie Mills said, without irony, "there are a lot of bad influences out there." Just five years ago, he would have been right; but through the collective effort of many people in the community - including the Rescue Mission - the neighborhood has drastically changed for the better. Creating a growing Rescue Mission that brings in, rather than shuts out their neighbors, I would argue, is the best thing not just for the neighbors, but for the people that the Rescue Mission serves. It's the model of integration that the North-East-Central Durham revitalization plan sought, and many have worked to implement. We all benefit from creating a safe and vibrant community for one another - not from shutting ourselves inside high fences and absolving ourselves of responsibility outside those gates.

I hope the Rescue Mission will shelve their lobbyists and attorneys and have a real give-and-take dialogue with the neighbors - where I am convinced a win-win for both 'sides' can be hammered out; it won't look like what the Rescue Mission has proposed, but it will serve the entire community better.

If they won't go willingly (which it appears they won't,) I hope the city council has the courage to stand up to the dichotomies that the Rescue Mission/K&L Gates will propose, and insist upon a solution negotiated with the neighborhood. Because right now, the Rescue Mission seems determined to push their plans through with demolitions, fences, and street closures, and battle lines have been drawn - such that the Rescue Mission is opposing the neighborhood's desire to designate the National Register Historic District as a local historic district, and the neighbors have filed a protest petition over the Rescue Mission's rezoning.

I wish the council members courage on this one, because people I've spoken with about rational change in these plans seem deathly afraid of publicly offending the Rescue Mission - for fear of tarnishing their own public image. But none of us, no matter how holy our calling, are above criticism; it is okay to be both for the goals and success of the Rescue Mission in serving the homeless and against their land use plans as presented; and demanding better from the latter does not diminish the former.

Most people reading this blog know that I am Chief Operating Officer for Scientific Properties, which has invested heavily in the renovation of Golden Belt, 2-3 blocks west of the Rescue Mission; as the line in the sidebar states, Endangered Durham represents my personal opinion.

Find this spot on a Google Map.

35.987529,-78.887404