Tuesday, May 31, 2011

DURHAM LUMBER COMPANY / DELTA GYPSUM


Durham Lumber Company, 1910

The land south of the Cheek Farm, adjacent to the North Carolina Railroad Tracks was owned and operated by the Durham Lumber Company - when this was initially established, I'm not sure. By 1904, the land belonged to WT Carrington, who ran an eponymous lumber company on the same site - by 1909 this reverted to the Durham Lumber Company.

From Durham Illustrated, 1910 with boostery language unexpurgated:

"Among the lumber manufacturers of North Carolina, one which holds a prominent position among the leaders is the Durham Lumber Company, Incorporated. This company, which was incorporated in June 1909, is the direct successor to the business of the WT Carrington Lumber Co., which had been in existence for about five years, they having succeeded the old Durham Lumber Company. The present company has an authorized capital stock of $125,000 and does an enormous business in the manufacture of lumber, sash, doors, blinds, and general builder's supplies. They have large mills and yards in East Durham, their main building being of two stories, 50 x 150 feet in dimensions and with saw-mill in connection. They employ a staff of about eighty-five expert men and assistants, and not only supply builders and contractors throughout this district, but also ship a great deal of their manufactured goods to the Northern States. They make a speciality of band-sawed North Carolina pine and hardwood lumber, and have their plant completely equipped with modern mill machinery. The officers of the company are all gentlemen well known in local circles as men of the utmost integrity and splendid business ability. The President is Chas. A. Gribble, who was connected with the building business in Ohio for Some years before coming to Durham. The vice-presdient is James B. Mason, cashier of the Citizens National Bank, and vice-president of the Commonwealth Cotton Manufacturing Co. The Secretary-Treasurer is Dillard C. Mitchell, a most capable man for his important position. He has had long experience in the lumber industry, and is an acknowledged authority on all matters pertaining thereto."

The site has remained industrial throughout the 20th and into the 21st century. Delta Gypsum currently calls it home; the site is owned by Jeth Corporation of Oxford, NC.


05.08.11

Find this spot on a Google Map.

35.981233,-78.881289

Monday, May 30, 2011

110 NORTH GUTHRIE AVENUE


110 North Guthrie, 05.30.11

Find this spot on a Google Map.

35.986625,-78.875987

506 FERNWAY STREET


506 Fernway, 05.30.11

A great little house with nice detailing / front porch that has been in a state of ongoing deterioration and, in recent years, abandonment since purchased by the BDV II, LLC (Blue Devil Ventures - developers of West Village) in March of 2004. Undoubtedly the parcel was planed for parking or development, but it's a shame to see this house rot away when I somewhat doubt that whatever incarnation of BDV is currently in control of this parcel is going to be expanding anytime soon.

Find this spot on a Google Map.

35.99989,-78.904179

402 MORRIS STREET / MORRIS RIDGE


Morris Street aerial, 1959


402-408 Hunt Street, looking west on Hunt from Roney, 03.08.65
(Courtesy Herald-Sun)


05.30.11


Rendering of Phase I of "Morris Ridge" - a commercial/residential development along the Hunt Street frontage, between Morris and Roney Streets.

Find this spot on a Google Map.

36.000355,-78.903387

411 MORRIS STREET


05.30.11

Find this spot on a Google Map.

36.000949,-78.903798

820 WILKERSON AVENUE - WILLIAM T O'BRIEN HOUSE


820 Wilkerson, 04.03.11

From the historic inventory:


This two-story frame house is one of the oldest and most distinctive houses in West End. Its form, characterized by wings terminating in three-sided bays, is accentuated by the carefully detailed one-story wraparound porch that follows the contour of the south and east elevations. The porch elements consist of turned porch posts with sawn spandrels, turned balusters in the railing, and a spool frieze with a scalloped edge. The house should be noted for its restored exterior which retains its original patterned tin roof and interior chimneys with tall corbelled stacks. The [owner of the house in 1980] was the recipient in 1976 of one of the first annual awards presented by the Historic Preservation Society of Durham.

The house is one of the most historically significant in the area, having been constructed by William Thomas O'Brien. O'Brien moved to Durham from Virginia in 1881 to operate and perfect the Bonsack cigarette rolling machine for W. Duke Sons and Co.

By 1892, he was living in this house, situated on what originally was a large tract of land that extended all the way to Rome St. and included a servants' house, a smokehouse, and a chicken coop. O'Brien also was instrumental in establishing a Roman Catholic Church in Durham. Services were held in this house until the Immaculate Conception Church was constructed in 1906 on [West] Chapel HIll Street on land which he deeded to the congregation [and with additional monetary support from O'Brien for the construction of the original sanctuary.] After O'Brien's death in 1907, his widow moved to South Duke Street. By 1919, this house was occupied by the family of Edward J. Long, a carpenter and interior decorator, who lived here for many years.


)Find this spot on a Google Map.

35.999645,-78.915798

CARR UNITED METHODIST AND PARSONAGE - EAST PEABODY


Per an article by Wyatt Dixon, this drawing is of Carr Methodist, ~1900. However, the Sanborn Map from 1913 appears to show a structure differently configured.

Carr United Methodist church began out of the establishment of the Durham Cotton Manufacturing Company in East Durham. Julian Carr, who, along with the Dukes was a lifelong Methodist, provided the funds to establish the church on the north side of the railroad tracks, across from the factory. The first structure was a frame building located at the northeast corner of Clay (then called Watts) and Peabody Streets.

At a quarterly conference at Trinity Church in 1885, the main topic of discussion was church expansion - to reach out to the people of the eastern and western parts of Durham. At that time, a building committee for the eastern section was appointed including: Julian S. Carr, chairman, E. J. Parrish, Rev. Alexander Walker, J. C. Angier, James Southgate, J. B. Walker, T. B. Smith, H. N. Snow, T. D. Jones, J. M. Odell, Washington Duke, and W. H. Branson. They obtained permission to hold services on the fourth floor of the East Durham Cotton Mill on E. Pettigrew Street until a church could be built. At the annual conference held in Durham in 1885, the Rev. W. S. Black was named presiding elder and the Rev. Amos Gregson, a local lay pastor was appointed pastor of the East End and West End churches. On July 22, 1886, Gregson reported to the District Conference: "The religious services of East Durham are held in the factory of the Durham Cotton Mfg. Co. At this place we have organized a church of twelve members and have a Sunday School numbering one hundred officers, teachers, and scholars. We expect soon to begin the erection of a house of worship which when finished will cost about $2,000." The site for the first church, a lot of about 3/4 acres, was purchased from Mr. Grey Barbee for the sum of $300. This lot was located directly across the railroad from the mill on the southeast corner of Clay and Peabody Streets. The cornerstone of the church was laid on August 26, 1886. This date is now accepted as the birthday of Carr Methodist Church. The church was named for General Julian S. Carr, a member of the building committee, who on many occasions made liberal donations to the building fund and other needs of the church. The charter members of the church were: A. E. Brewer, Mariah Brewer, J. P. Hornbuckle, Susan S. Hornbuckle, Lela P.
Faucette, Richard F. Hornbuckle, James R. Cole, Smanthy B. Cole, Ira Mayton, A. M. Culberson, Alice W. Faucette, Laura B. Faucette, and Amos Gregson, pastor. The officers of the Sunday School were: W. H. Branson, Superintendent, E. C. Barnhardt, Secretary. Teachers were: J. R. Cole, J. P. Hornbuckle, E. W. Hayes, T. J. W. Brown, Jennie P. McLeod, Mrs. Clara Branson, Mary Geans, Nettie Wilson, Annie Lloyd, E. W. Worth, Jennie Cox, and H. C. Kirk - a total of 14. There were 114 scholars on roll. The first couple married in the church were Mr. and Mrs. T. J. W. Brown.

The first structure was only one room and was used until 1908, when a wing was built on the west side and called the Sunday School unit. This was closed off from the main room by sliding doors which could be opened and used during the worship service.


At some point between 1908 and 1913, a Parsonage was built to the north of the church.


Parsonage, 409 Clay Street, 1980


1913 Sanborn showing Carr Methodist and the parsonage at the corner of Railroad (East Peabody) and Watts (Clay) Streets. Wall Street = Vale Street.


In 1916, it became evident more room was needed. Since the town was growing to the north, the trustees decided to try to secure a building site in a more centralized location. They bargained for a lot on the corner of E. Main and Driver Streets, known as the T. B. Smith property. At this time, conditions became uncertain due to World War I, so it was decided to take the money available and add a two story annex to the present building. It was added to the north side of the main room, completed in 1917 and used for 15 years.

In 1925, three houses burned on Driver Avenue near E. Main Street. The trustees secured these lots along with land purchased from Mr. H. A. Jones for a total of $5,800. This amount was paid in one year. These lots provided space for the new church and parsonage.


The congregation built the new church in stages over the period of 1925-1949. It appears that the original church was demolished in 1932

The parsonage remained standing in the early 1980s, but was torn down prior to 1993.


Site of Carr Methodist, 05.08.11


Site of the Carr Methodist Parsonage, 05.08.11

Find this spot on a Google Map.

35.980965,-78.880617

Sunday, May 29, 2011

CARDEN ALLEY


05.08.11

One of those great tucked-away, small town in the middle of Durham kind of spots, Carden Alley feels a bit like a place out of time to me.

Find this spot on a Google Map.

35.981962,-78.879413

Saturday, May 28, 2011

2612 HILLSBOROUGH ROAD


2612 Hillsborough Road, 06.17.58
(Courtesy The Herald-Sun Newspaper)

Find this spot on a Google Map.

2602 WEST MAIN STREET


2602 West Main St., 08.21.61
(Courtesy The Herald-Sun Newspaper)

Find this spot on a Google Map.

36.008428,-78.929447

612 GATTIS STREET


612 Gattis St., 04.12.61
Courtesy The Herald-Sun Newspaper)

Find this spot on a Google Map.

35.997299,-78.917725

UNIVERSITY STATION


Map of Orange County as it was late 19th Century - University Station and the rail line are visible to the southeast of Hillsborough.

I've done an Orange County post or two before - given that most of Durham County was once Orange County, and the European settlement of Orange around the county seat of Hillsborough predated that of parts east, the early history of the two counties - and the cities of Hillsborough, Chapel Hill, and Durham are tightly interwoven, as much as we may act like rival siblings.

As most know, the establishment of the University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill predates significant agglomerations of people in now-Durham County, and the establishment of the city of Durham. The university was chartered in 1789 and began regular classes for undergraduates in 1795. It would be ~60 more years before the North Carolina Railroad would be constructed, leading to the establishment of the city of Durham.

Chapel Hill and UNC history is not my area, so the details of why Chapel Hill was chosen, aside from a central location in the state, are beyond my knowledge base.

It seems an interesting choice, though - one which would affect the transportation connectivity of the university much later (the main subject of this article.) The main roads of the state - from pre-European history to the 18th century, ran along relatively flat ridgelines. Those who have heard me speak have seen me start out talking about the NC railroad and Durham by pointing out the 'ridge' that separates the Cape Fear from the Neuse river basins - which became the Hillsborough - Raleigh Road in this area of the state. By separating the university from this existing 'highway' - atop a hill miles to the south, the founders made it rather more difficult to get to.

[Mark Chilton points out in the comments below that the site was on the road from Raleigh to Guilford Courthouse and the road from Pittsboro to Oxford - I believe this is the New Hope Road and only a mile off of the road from Fayetteville to Hillsborough.]

One major consequence of this arise when the North Carolina Railroad was established in 1848, the choice was made to run the route from Goldsboro to Greensboro, along the aforementioned ridgeline - which put the track, at its closest point, about 8.2 miles from the university.

With the establishment and growth of Durham, particularly after 1865, Durham quickly became a stopping off point for travelers (as Prattsburg had been previously) - from farmers bringing tobacco to auction, former rural residents looking for work, and students at the university, who found the depot at Durham Station the preferred point of transfer from road to railroad. Durham grew rapidly, and the proliferation of saloons was in no small part due to the demand of these constituencies. (College students, despite the romantic notions of college faculty and administration, have not changed much over the past 200+ years.)

The ingrained view of Durham as a dirty, uncouth place - in contrast with the slice of heaven atop a hill to the southwest, began to take shape during these mid-to-late-19th century years. There was some truth to this - Chapel HIll was bereft of the kind of industry and commerce that brought great wealth to Durham, but also all of the externalities of commerce and industry.

This tension would leave Chapel Hill and the university torn between the benefits of bringing a railroad to Chapel Hill and the concern over what that railroad might bring to Chapel Hill. Several failed attempts - including building a line to Durham - preceded the establishment of the Chapel Hill Iron Mountain Railroad company, which would not connect with Durham, but to a closer point to the NCRR mid-way between Hillsborough and Durham. It would also pass by Iron Mountain, with some promise of industrial utility for the line. The university stipulated that the railroad be located 2 miles away from the university - to again provide a buffer between the university and the feared influence of the train. The depot was established at the West End, later known as Venable, and still later, as Carrboro.


Map showing the relationship between Hillsborough, Chapel Hill and the rail line - now attributed to the Southern Railway

The connection with the NCRR was known as University Station, and later, just University. A station and a handful of houses and establishments grew around the depot. The name of the railroad company was soon changed to the State University Railroad Company, and the line was later operated by the Southern Railway.


The University Station Depot, undated, source unknown.

Although the sources I have give little attention to University Station, it doesn't seem that the depot grew at any significant rate. Houses and potentially lodging and food were available from a small number of venues. Several people with Durham connections established farms in the University Station area. The Fitzgerald family - Robert and Richard - established their first farm and brickmaking operation at University Station prior to moving to Durham's West End.

I've written previously about the various 'gentleman farmer' farmhouses/operations of Durham's wealthy industrialists, including Lochmoor, Bonnie Brae, Quail Roost Farm, and Julian Carr's Occoneechee Farm. Jean Anderson notes two other farms of the Durham nobility that were located in the University Station area:

Benjamin Duke bought many small tracts and put together a farm of over two thousand acres, the Meadows, near University Station on the old road to Hillsborough. John T. Hogan, his farm manager, regularly sent him rather discouraging reports on the farming operations. In 1895, Duke added a large frame house (still standing) with wide porches facing the road to Hillsborough near University Station. In the next decade, James Southgate built on top of a nearby hill a two-story log house in which he entertained friends with his magnificent view of the countryside by day and the stars by night. The young members of the Fun-Lovers Club were entertained by Southgate once in their giddy youth and remembered it thirty years later as 'the grandest place with cozy corners galore. There were thirty of us at University Station... We sat around a big log fire and Mr. Southgate was grand to us. We all kissed him good-bye.'

(Ben Duke and James Southgate were neighbors back in Durham as well, both living on the southern corners of Willard and West Chapel Hill St.)

Carr, seemingly a man of boundless energy, provided funding for the initial University line, and later, as a state representative, sponsored a legislative bill to finally settle the unpaid monetary bill for the construction. Carr bought the established Alberta mill, built by Tom Lloyd in 1898, in 1909 and made it part of of his Durham Hosiery Mills empire as the Durham Hosiery Mill No. 4. He also purchased another Lloyd mill on the south side of Main St. and made it Durham Hosiery Mill No. 7 at the southern end of the line. The West End/Venable would come to be named for him in 1914 - Carrboro.

In the early 20th century, at the northern origin of the line, along US 70, north of the tracks, a sort of secondary nucleus grew of bungalows and a service station/store.

The Durham Hosiery Mills contracted severely in the 1930s - both 4 and 7 went out of business. The rise of automobile travel, which afforded a much more direct route to Chapel HIll, made the University line less and less viable. Per "Orange County, 1752-1952," the last passenger trains on the University line ran around 1940.

When the last train ran [in ~1940], Bruce Strowd issued an invitation to the children of Chapel Hill to make the trip over to the junction and back. Many of them found it an exciting adventure because they had never been on a railway train before.....Captain Fred Smith was conductor on the train from 1889 for about fifty years......

What happened to University and University Station over the subsequent decades isn't detailed anywhere that I've found, but photos from the Durham Morning Herald in 1972 show an underused looking place.


From US 70, looking south on University Road towards University Station - Griffin's Store is to the right, 03.10.72
(Courtesy The Herald-Sun Newspaper)


Looking south towards the junction, 03.10.72
(Courtesy The Herald-Sun Newspaper)


University Station, 03.10.72
(Courtesy The Herald-Sun Newspaper)


University Station, 03.10.72
(Courtesy The Herald-Sun Newspaper)


University Station, 03.10.72
(Courtesy The Herald-Sun Newspaper)


University Station, 03.10.72. This grocery was evidently burned by an arsonist in the late 1970s or early 1980s.
(Courtesy The Herald-Sun Newspaper)


University Station, 03.10.72
(Courtesy The Herald-Sun Newspaper)


University Station, 03.10.72
(Courtesy The Herald-Sun Newspaper)


University Station, 03.10.72
(Courtesy The Herald-Sun Newspaper)

I'm not sure where the station/platform actually were at University Station - there isn't clear evidence of them now. The station area still appears somewhat abandoned, although there is the house of a clear enthusiast behind the trees.


04.04.11


04.04.11


04.04.11

The area along US 70 has fared better, with several nice bungalows, and the store, which is now called University Station Market.


04.04.11


04.04.11


04.04.11


04.04.11


04.04.11

Carrboro faded, as did Durham, from the loss of its industrial backbone in mid-20th century.


Carrboro, 1960s-1970s, showing the industrial development around the southern end of the University Station line. The former Durham Hosiery Mills No. 4 and No. 7 are visible (later the Carrboro Woolen Mills No. 1 and 2, branches of Pacific Mills)
(Courtesy The Herald-Sun Newspaper)

The mills closed in the 1960s. Fortunately, the close proximity of UNC meant that the bottoming-out was short-lived, with repurposing of old structures occurring throughout the 1980s and 1990s, although the former Durham Hosiery Mill No. 7 was demolished.

I believe the train still heads down this spur to supply coal to the UNC power plant, although I don't know that it serves anyone else. The Southern Railway station at Carrboro has been preserved (kudos to them for not being as deeply stupid as Durham in demolishing its own train station.) The former Durham Hosiery Mill No. 4 survives as the Carr Mill Mall - the 1977 year of its repurposing evident in its name.


Southern Railway Station, Carrboro, 05.22.11


The former Durham Hosiery Mill No. 4 / Carr Mill, 05.22.11

Find University Station

Find University

36.03762,-79.035484

Friday, May 27, 2011

402 CLAY STREET


402 Clay, ~2005

402 Clay, the parcel, was originally part of the Cheek Farm, subdivided by H. A. Foushee and wife Annie H. in 1905 and sold off as individual lots. The 402 Clay parcel was sold to to E. C. McCall on Feb. 3, 1906 for $350. McCall was a clerk with the Durham & Southern Railway Co who previously lived at 201 Vivian Street - it appears that he and his wife Bertha built the house at 402 Clay in 1907 and moved there within the year.

They did not live in the house for long; on 02.26.1912 the McCalls sold the house to James W. Cates and his wife Effie. Cates is listed as a "mill hand" at the Durham Cotton Mfg. Co in 1915, although in the census he is listed as an "overseer" - it seems likely he would have had a position that afforded him a bit more money to be able to afford a house the size of 402 Clay. They, too, did not live in the house for long, selling it to the Durham Cotton Mfg. Co. on 06.14.1919. for $2800.

I didn't trace the city directories after this point; by the 1990s, the house was in the hands of one of Durham's various abandoned historic housing collectors. In the early 2000s, Preservation Durham acquired an option on the property, but it is no longer under option.


01.22.11


05.08.11

I've always loved the configuration of this house, with the front entrance on the short side, wraparound porch, and projecting bay. It's certainly well worth $27K - I'm not sure why no one has snapped this up, given the other momentum on Vale Street.

Find this spot on a Google Map.

35.981742,-78.880652

313 CLAY STREET



Find this spot on a Google Map.

35.981839,-78.880237

309 CLAY STREET


01.22.11

Find this spot on a Google Map.

35.982077,-78.88011

307 CLAY STREET


04.04.11

Find this spot on a Google Map.

35.98232,-78.880039

Thursday, May 26, 2011

Mystery Photo 5.26.11


"A Durham County School Building" - 1906
(Courtesy Duke Rare Book and Manuscript Collection. Scanned by Digital Durham)

1808 ANGIER AVENUE


04.04.11

Originally part of the Cheek Farm, subdivided in 1905

1930: Robert A Crabtree
1944: Silas B. Lea
1950: Fred E Hilburn, Norton W. Hilburn
1957: Norton Hilburn, Bill Poole, Ernest Pegram

Find this spot on a Google Map.

35.983089,-78.881101